Day 1 of the Digital First Season Fluid Edition of Lakmé Fashion Week 2020 witnessed a unique collaboration between six respected designer labels to promote the various crafts of India.
A craft-based initiative by IMG Reliance where the designer labels, Abraham & Thakore, Rajesh Pratap Singh for Satya Paul, Urvashi Kaur, Payal Khandwala, Anavila and Suket Dhir showcased collections that highlighted crafts like ikat, block prints, Jamdaani, brocade, Khatwa and Shibori techniques.
ABRAHAM & THAKORE
Designers David Abraham and Rakesh Thakore for their label Abraham & Thakore emphasized on a capsule collection of block printed garments. On a restricting colour card of just sand and gold, the designing duo showcased elegant separates that came with mix and match options.
The expert technique of hand block printing was evident in the gorgeous gold studded pinstriped sari worn with a sophisticated Victorian-style blouse. Adding some feminine flounce to the look, there was the ruffled maxi skirt that looked great with a cut-away shoulder blouse.
For more practical semi-formal options, the wide-legged pants with giant gold dots were worn with a cross over tie-up blouse with ruffled sleeves and deep décolletage.
RAJESH PRATAP SINGH FOR SATYA PAUL
Designer Rajesh Pratap Singh showcased his version of double ikat for Satya Paul Studio in stark black and white with a sprinkling of hot colours at Day 1 of the sartorial soiree. Working his creative magic, Rajesh brought the Mirroring Pallav saris in striking monochromes.
The blurred geometry of the patterns was visualised on simple cotton saris with the ikat accentuating the pallav, while the black borders completed the look for the white saris.
Adding some more drama, there was the linear ikat for a black and white colour blocked sari that was one of the eye-catchers.
A burst of multicoloured geometric squares was the focal point of another white sari with a rich red ikat border.
ANAVILA MISHRA
Anavila Studios paved the way for festivities with the “Dhanak” collection, which means rainbow in Sanskrit.
Working with her signature linen that was woven with fine zari and khatwa work, the collection was a joyous offering of festive apparel.
The label’s energetic colour choice matched the happy mood of the garments and saris. The jewel tones of rich garnet, serene citrine, impressive jade, attractive amethyst, royal emerald, terrific topaz, intriguing sapphire and beautiful rose quartz were seen in this collection.
Keeping her silhouettes easy and comfortable, Anavila’s collection consisted of citrine kaftans, stunning drapes, baggy blouses and layered ensembles.
PAYAL KHANDWALA
Payal Khandwala showcased a limited edition of just ten saris, handwoven in silk Jamdaani on Day 1 of the season fluid soiree. Along with her signature colour-blocked silks and traditional floral and geometrical motifs, the designer added an exaggerated and modern version of the wildflower print story.
Payal showcased in each sari a meticulous format, when two-inch strips of designs are placed under the loom with myriad dots in watercolour added to the woven warp, to recreate the pattern on the yarn. The weaving done by wooden shuttles according to guidelines had a silver metallic yarn with the assistance of a separate metallic needle.
The shade card of this collection consisted of rich jewel tones ranging from ruby reds, to vibrant parrot greens, electric blues and stunning fuchsias.
The splendid handwoven Jamdaani saris in brilliant hues by Payal Khandwala were a worthy offering that displayed the beauty of India’s textile heritage.
URVASHI KAUR
Showcasing the beauty of Shibori tie-dye patterns Urvashi Kaur’s “Tahul” Collection was a fascinating display of craft, textiles, construction and detailing. The range was a mix smorgasbord of relaxed androgynous apparel. Tiered and shirt dresses vied for attention with the oversized silhouettes that offered trans-seasonal relaxed dressing options. The multi-layers had numerous mix and match choices for both sexes in a sheer and opaque format for a stylish appeal.
Urvashi’s signature Shibori tie-dye patterns came alive on the deep sombre shade card of grey with indigo and then gradually traversed to winter sage as well as oak which were merged with ochre green and charcoal.
Detailing created a strong accent in the form of micro pleating and hand blocks while the fabric base was as diverse. Urvashi selected handwoven organic cotton, sheer Kota silk, Jamdaani and then brought in sheer noils that had inserts of intricate stitch line texturing.
Men’s wear featured a concealed placket, boxy jacket with Shibori insets on sleeves and body-worn on a matching shirt while the linear striped pants displayed bold insets and patch pocket with the craft. The androgynous quintet of garments comprised indigo baggy wide lapelled coat over basic shirt teamed with a Shibori patterned, layered, pleated skirt and trousers.
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For comfortable women’s wear, Urvashi gave importance to an indigo shirt worn with a micro pleated Shibori pattern, swirling blouse and skirt over slim pants.
SUKET DHIR
Celebrating the ‘Nature Within’ concept, Suket introduced a mélange of varied animal prints that lit up the landscape on the handwoven silk brocades, which were created instead of the conventional motifs of Maharanis, Maharajas and Sakhis.
Showcasing a mix and match line of rich textiles for the relaxed line of garments, the designer ensured that they could be either dressed up or down very easily.
Sharply cut trousers, jackets and kurtas in turmeric hues, floral weaves featuring dazzling fuchsia brocades and flared skirts made for some eye-catchy looks from the collection.
Suket Dhir gave a creative fashion dimension to festive wear but kept the rich fabric brocade base very contemporary in vibrant hues and motifs.
That was one big fashion roller-coaster, wasn’t it?
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