It was dark and mysterious with opera music, soft and almost somnolent, wafting in the air. But you woke up with your eyes wide open as it brightened and the models sashayed down the aisles and around a lush bush at Taj Palace in Delhi. It was Varun Bahl showcasing at India Couture Week, presented by FDCI (Fashion Design Council of India) in association with Lotus Make-up. It was a feast of flora and fauna in the designer’s collection, called New Leaf, celebrating nature in all its wonder and handcrafted embroideries that have been a signature of his atelier since its inception.

You could sense that the couturier was aiming at a younger audience with his reinvention of haute couture that burst with happy hues and views. Appliques of feathers and sequins were seen in the creations with silk and velvet fabrics. On view were lehengas, gowns, jumpsuits, asymmetrical dresses, ruffles and skirts with corsets, and draped saris. The colour story included rose, pink, green, blue, yellow, fuchsia, lavender, ivory, red and black. Accessories by Sehgal Jewellers added to the appeal.

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Beads, gemstones and 3D-embroidered leaves and flowers caught your eye. Besides women’s wear, New Leaf also explored menswear with vim and vigour and a distinct contemporary global touch.

And the shining showstopper was attractive actor Rashmika Mandanna with her sweet smile and red lehenga.