Paris goes insanely aesthetic for Fall 2018 Haute couture week: Decoding 'L’Atelier Sonia Rykiel' collection
Paris Haute Couture Week always manages to throw some pleasant surprises - it could be the sheer theatrics and the exquisite scale of a presentation or a new designer taking over a heritage house. The legendary brand Sonia Rykiel celebrated its 50th anniversary this year and in recognition of that milestone, the label was invited by the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture to showcase its first haute couture collection. So this week's hero debut was of the talented Julie de Libran, who presented the house’s first haute couture collection called 'L’Atelier Sonia Rykiel'.
The high fashion frenzy together with the golden anniversary got off to a dizzying start with a welcome dinner at L’alcazar, hosted by the French label which has been steeped in heritage and craftsmanship. The newly refurbished restaurant in Saint Germain had tastefully decorated tables, lit up with votive candles and beautiful flowers. The intimate sit down dinner saw the who's who of the couture jet-set celebrating the indomitable spirit of the late designer, who has been time and again hailed as the 'Queen of Knits'.
The menu comprised of a delectable upbeat take on bistro delicacies and it was a pleasure to catch up with the elegantly-dressed couture buyers, influencers and editors amidst the plush interiors surrounded by the tropical green foliage. Caviar, carats, champagne, couture, and conversation - what more could one expect out of a Parisian evening!
Next day was the spectacular show where twenty-five unique looks were unveiled in the renovated Cour du Mûrier, a former convent located within the School of Fine Arts. Guests sat under the courtyard’s arches or in the graveled garden with a stunning fountain in the middle as models strutted past in ensembles, which married old world charm with modernity.
[caption id="attachment_98352" align="aligncenter" width="1200"] Socialite Sheetal Mafatlal, and designer Julia de Libran (in white shirt and denim) with her clients[/caption]
The brand has been the undying metaphor for Parisian chic ever since it was launched on the French capital’s Left Bank 50 years ago. This season, to mark its half-century, Julie struck a beautiful balance between French elegance and the unconquerable spirit of female independence. In a season where most couture houses have returned back to the age-old elegance and simplicity, Rykiel's models went shirt- and braless under their tuxedos.
The collection gloried thanks to the of-the-moment athleisure treatment in terms of styling. For instance, Rykiel’s signature velour joggings came in embroidered tulle which was teamed with a feather accented jumper. Insta sensation and style icon Georgia May Jagger stood out in her little black sweaterdress with a bikini top embellished on it.
The house's savoir-faire was exemplified in exquisite craftsmanship and unexpected pairings of separates. The show had a fitting finale with the SR bride sashaying down the runway in a front-lacing corset dress, feathered knit veil, and blue denim.
Post the show a stylish lunch was hosted by the formidable owner/CEO Jean Marc Loubier in the fantastical garden hidden behind the arches. I thoroughly enjoyed soaking in the aesthetic and interacting with the immaculately coiffed guests all dressed in Rykiel as a mark of respect to this special celebration.
Laurent Marie Affre (the suave and sophisticated director of couture and director of the 50 years anniversary celebration ) in between orchestrating the two-day long festivities to perfection also ensured I was dressed by the brand in a monochrome embellished dress, which true to the savoir-faire of the house exuded a hint of nonchalance and a sliver of insouciance- so central to the Rykiel style vocabulary. The elegant and handcrafted atelier outfit was easy to wear and yet had a figure-hugging silhouette. I accented the ensemble with a pair of high heels, smokey eyes, and braided hair. A special souvenir of handbags emblazoned with 175 Saint Germain (location of the 1st boutique) 1968(the year the brand was launched and the year of women’s revolution) was given to all the guests.
[caption id="attachment_98355" align="aligncenter" width="900"] (L-R) CEO of Sonia Rykiel Jean Marc Loubier, Sheetal Mafatlal, and Director of Haute Couture, Laurent Marie Affre.[/caption]
Post lunch a cocktail was hosted at the Boutique Delvaux (the historical Belgian leather goods brand that was founded a year before the Kingdom of Belgium was established and now also owned by First Heritage Brands) to present the new collection and enlighten the guests about the reinvention of the brand under Christina Zeller who took over as artistic director in 2011.
This haute couture autumn/ winter 2018 season with the team of First Heritage Brands for me, was an ode to designers across the board, who celebrate age-old crafts, retain the past regalia and marry it to modernity. Inspiring, uplifting and palate-cleansing - that's definitely my idea of haute couture.
Socialite Sheetal Mafatlal, and designer Julia de Libran (in white shirt and denim) with her clients[/caption]
(L-R) CEO of Sonia Rykiel Jean Marc Loubier, Sheetal Mafatlal, and Director of Haute Couture, Laurent Marie Affre.[/caption]
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